The best view of the interior is obtained by standing in the choir, as
near as possible to the tomb of St. Pol--distinguished by a black marble
slab immediately in front of the altar--and looking westward. The
long-drawn aisle is very fine; the stalls and decoration of the choir
stand out well, whilst the Early-Pointed arches on either side are
marked by beauty and refinement. The west end of the nave seems quite
far off and becomes almost dream-like.
Yet in some way the Cathedral of St. Pol de Leon left upon us a certain
feeling of disappointment. The interior did not seem equal to the
exterior; and as the church has been much praised at different times by
those capable of distinguishing the good in architecture, we attributed
this impression to the effect of its comparatively recent restoration.
Behind the cathedral is an old prebendal house, belonging to the
sixteenth century and possessing many interesting details. Beyond it
again was the small chapel of St. Joseph, attached to the convent of the
Ursuline nuns, founded in 1630. For St. Pol de Leon is still essentially
a religious and ecclesiastical town, living on its past glory and
reputation. Once immensely rich, it now impresses one with a feeling of
sadness and poverty.
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